

our neighborhood, sargento


our balcony


our evening view


tulum


us, hot, in tulum


iguana


me snorkeling
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the night of the wedding jim's mom drove us to the airport hotel. we slept for about 3 hours, and
caught a 6am flight to the united states of mexico. the first thing we noticed from the air was
how green the land was. the next thing we noticed was the poverty. migration had a rather long
line, so we opted to chill and eat a bite. the airport in cancun was interesting-the industrial
look-exposed pipes and wire due to the lack of a ceiling, smoky, hot, dirty, unorganized... so
we went back to migration; the line had tripled. no sense of order what so ever. we eventually
made it through, were green lighted, and were quickly whisked away to our awaiting shuttle to the
resort. the people were exceptionally nice; they offered corona for the hour ride down. the ride
was an eye opener. there is one straight, main road to the resorts which are all on the left side
of the road. on the right are crumbling structures that serve as homes for the locals. they
didn't seem to have electricity, running water, roofs.
we got to the xpu-ha
resort 60 miles south of cancun in riviera maya and were amazed. it was so lovely. xpu ha was
previously an ecopark; the resort kept the feel of it. the birds were beautiful, iguanas often
crossed our paths. check in was al fresco with a thatched cathedral ceiling. the lobby was the
same. the decor was simple with mayan reminders all about. the resort didn't have a hotel. it had
small neighborhoods of thatched roofed huts. there were about six huts per neighborhood arranged
in a circle, and each had 2 guest suites. we were upstairs in quince once (1511-we had the
opportunity to practice our spanish a lot). our room was so cool! thatched ceiling, of course,
sliding glass doors that lead out the large furnished terrace with a view of the grounds (we
also had a hammock :), a double jacuzzi, and it was stocked well with water, juice, beer and a
bottle of champagne, well, spanish (i mean spanish, not mexican; look into mexican history)
sparkling wine.
after a good nap we checked out the property, ate a nice mexican dinner and went to bed early. we
woke early enjoyed our daily breakfast buffet and hit the beach. that's about all you can handle
due to the heat. but it's exactly what we were looking for. the beach was great. thatched
umbrellas, white sand, crystal clear, sparkling blue, warm water. the sun was intense, but we
were smart: spf 45 and umbrella refuge most of the time. after a bit we'd venture off for the
buffet lunch-probably the best meal of the day. there was fruit, salad, bread, hot dishes a
grill, and even sushi. then off the pool for a nap. then dinner. dinner was a sit down and
order meal. there were 3 "restaurants"-different side of the same, really. mexican, of course,
italian and asian. all the food tasted the same, but, not surprisingly, the best choices were on
the mexican side. after dinner a show. now, the shows at xpu ha were similar to what you'd expect
to see at the resort in dirty dancing. they were hour long skits by the staff. the end of each
was the same-3 guys dancing to mexican, reggae, dance tunes. that was the best part. ;)
and that's how each day was spent. we went snorkeling in the great cove they had, visited the
monos (monkeys) daily, sun bathed topless, visited the gift shop to waste minutes. twice we
ventured to a different resort, and although the restaurant had a better ambience, it was pretty
much the same. we took a group trip to tulum-nearby mayan ruins: it was HOT. beautiful but too
hot to enjoy. and i missed out on the coco frios. but let me tell you of the day we went to playa
del carmen. we rented a yellow jeep and first drove to the cenotes accross the street (even though the car
rental guy said they weren't the best and suggested other ones-but they were too expensive and
touristy to go to). i couldn't wait to get to the cenotes, that's all i had
talked about since i heard about them, cenotes, cenotes, cenotes. we arrived at the kantun-chi cenote park,
it was sketchy to say the least. driving down a dirt road that passed abandoned buildings to a
hut in the jungle we were a bit skeptical. but the people were really friendly, spoke no english,
and there were other turistas so all seemed well. we ventured to the first of 4 cenotes. it was a
dark cave with freezing water. there were bottom feeding fish that would nibble your toes if you
stood in one place too long and god knows what else in the deep, dark, depths. that's when i
decided no snorkeling for me-i didn't want to see what i'd be swimming with. jim was more daring.
i finally got in the water, keeping my feet near the surface so nothing would snack on them, and
swam around a bit. we then noticed the birds living on the ceiling of the cave. cute? not since
their dropping had nowhere to go but in the water. and that's when we realized how stagnant the
water was. so here we are, in the mexican jungle, swimming in stagnant water with bird crap. i
jumped out. headed for the next cenote. on the way it got a bit buggy. there was a monkey in the
trees. it was on a leash with a big collar 'round its neck. odd. smoke everywhere-i'm not sure if
it was to keep the bugs at bay, but it really wasn't working. i was covered in mosquitoes. i've
never had so many on me at once. and that's when i freaked out. i had to get out of there. screw
the cenotes. i nearly ran down the road to our jeep. upon returning the snorkeling equipment we
were invited to come back to see the rest of the cenotes. sure-we'll be back later. we actually
went back to the resort, jumped in the pool-we figured the chlorine must have some disinfecting
properties, took hot showers, drank to forget, brushed our teeth... it was as if we just couldn't
get the cenotes of us. from that point on-they were referred to as no-notes. plbbbb...
ok, so we were clean, we hoped, jumped back in the jeep, and headed to playa del carmen, a
mexican/tourist town. it was so hot. we'd walk a block, have a dos equis, walk a bit more, drink
a bit more, we were feeling pretty good, forgot about the no-notes. it was rather poverty
stricken. tourism is 80% of mexico's income. everyone seems to have a shop full of tourist crap
to sell. they weren't high pressure, if you said no, they'd leave you alone.
we chilled on the beach, sipping beer as the sun dropped lower in the sky. on the walk back we
spotted an outdoor restaurant named 100% natural. we had to eat there. the food was really good.
we replenished with fresh fruit juice, salad, and spinach enchiladas. mmmmm.... we left, realized
playa had a much more chill vibe at night and found a great little art gallery/store. looking for
gifts, we came upon an old mexican/mayan/indian woman making her goods, catalena. we bought all
of our souvenirs from her-all beautifully hand made. back home.
one of the last nights we were there we stopped to catch the resort show: anything can happen
night (previously, never having seen the show, mind you, we added: but nothing will [what
jerks]). we stayed for 10 days most visitors stayed for 7, so it was an all new bunch of guests.
the show started, the mc need 5 female volunteers, the woman next to me jumped up and dragged me
with her. so five of us are on stage, he tells us we are now the contestants of the miss xpu ha
contest. dear god. first task: walk like a model down a runway. terrible. second: dance (by
applause i won that one), then: chug a beer. now, i never had chugged before but i was looking
forward to it-it was so hot out. anywho, i finished a lot faster than my peers. that got me the
title of miss beer. we then had to incorporate the audience: with a short time limit we had to
acquire 1) the shoes 2) the shirts 3) the shorts or bras of as many people as we could (for some
reason 2 ladies couldn't wait to give me their bras-i was the only one who had gotten any). the
final event was to get a conga line started-longest line wins. mine was about 2 times as long as
the other 4 contestants'. so, here i am, in all my glory, miss xpu ha. thank you, thank you. the
whole thing was just a lot of fun.
we left our sweet little room, jumped on an electric golf cart thingy, said goodbye to all the
animals of our resort: crocodillos, tortugas, monos, iguanas, big ass black moths, the mysterious
one in out thatched roof (that left clues to their existence), the birds, the beach, juan, our
spanish coach, and were off. the ride back to the airport was nice. we shared it with another
newlywed couple from indiana. they had very similar experiences to ours. which makes us think
that an all inclusive resort is not the way to travel and see the real sites/sights. the airport
on the way out was completely opposite to the place we first arrived: it was cool, clean,
organized, new... whatever, we just wanted out of mexico. our first flight brought me to tears:
"bumpy air." but we returned safely. what a trip.
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